Why Hire Me

I don't really consider myself a fence contractor, rather a fence artist. Combining engineering and artistry is very important to me. I want your fence to be strong and visually pleasing. My goal is for you to be happy with your fence when I'm done and still happy 10 years from now. That's why I built fences right and I build them to last. Here are some of my construction methods.

2x4 Rails

You've probably seen fences with 2x3 rails that are sagging in the middle. 2x3's are just too lightweight to support the weight of the pickets over time. That's why I use 2x4's. They have the strength to stay in place.

My Gates

Solid 2x4 construction. I use the Homax gate kit which I have found to be very strong. Generally,  I try to build gates that open inside the yard. This adds security to  the gate as the hardware is hidden. 

Fasteners

To attach the rails to the posts, I use deck screws. They are very strong and are guaranteed for life. They won't rust over time. 

The nails I use to attach the pickets are 2" hot dipped galvanized. They are .113mm thick (Thick!) and ring shanked. Once I shoot a picket, it's not coming off.

Post Spacing and Depth

Spacing is the distance between each post. On a 6 foot high fence, the spacing is no greater than 8 feet. For an 8 foot high fence, 6 feet apart. Please don't let someone tell you 8 foot spacing on your 8 foot high fence is okay. It's not! That's too much weight and it could fall over.

Depth is how far the post is set into the ground. I go 2 feet down for a 6 foot fence and 3 feet down for an 8 foot fence. The hole is 8" wide. 

I am insured and registered with many cities in DFW. If you want references, I have tons.